Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
